1970id19.blogspot.com 1970id19.blogspot.com

1970id19.blogspot.com

1970 ID19

Friday, November 25, 2011. Since the tank area was opened I spray some oil to fight rust and mice. Here is the new upper ball joint. I've used a hand made starter tool to extract the ball joint seat. The diameter and thread of the tool to extract the seat is 12mm x 1.0; I've used 12 x 1.25 which did not matter since the seat is good for the garbage anyway. Since I was lubing the ball joints, I did 15 pumps on the drive shaft. Posted by Phil Caron. Friday, November 18, 2011. The upper ball joint is apart.

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1970 ID19 | 1970id19.blogspot.com Reviews
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Friday, November 25, 2011. Since the tank area was opened I spray some oil to fight rust and mice. Here is the new upper ball joint. I've used a hand made starter tool to extract the ball joint seat. The diameter and thread of the tool to extract the seat is 12mm x 1.0; I've used 12 x 1.25 which did not matter since the seat is good for the garbage anyway. Since I was lubing the ball joints, I did 15 pumps on the drive shaft. Posted by Phil Caron. Friday, November 18, 2011. The upper ball joint is apart.
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6 ball joints
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1970 ID19 | 1970id19.blogspot.com Reviews

https://1970id19.blogspot.com

Friday, November 25, 2011. Since the tank area was opened I spray some oil to fight rust and mice. Here is the new upper ball joint. I've used a hand made starter tool to extract the ball joint seat. The diameter and thread of the tool to extract the seat is 12mm x 1.0; I've used 12 x 1.25 which did not matter since the seat is good for the garbage anyway. Since I was lubing the ball joints, I did 15 pumps on the drive shaft. Posted by Phil Caron. Friday, November 18, 2011. The upper ball joint is apart.

INTERNAL PAGES

1970id19.blogspot.com 1970id19.blogspot.com
1

1970 ID19: November 2011

http://1970id19.blogspot.com/2011_11_01_archive.html

Friday, November 25, 2011. Since the tank area was opened I spray some oil to fight rust and mice. Here is the new upper ball joint. I've used a hand made starter tool to extract the ball joint seat. The diameter and thread of the tool to extract the seat is 12mm x 1.0; I've used 12 x 1.25 which did not matter since the seat is good for the garbage anyway. Since I was lubing the ball joints, I did 15 pumps on the drive shaft. Posted by Phil Caron. Friday, November 18, 2011. The upper ball joint is apart.

2

1970 ID19: Rear right cylinder boot and rod...

http://1970id19.blogspot.com/2011/11/rear-right-cylinder-boot-and-rod.html

Friday, November 11, 2011. Rear right cylinder boot and rod. The rear right boot was held by a Chrysler type clamp; very hard to remove. Yep, silicone to plug the hole :oO. Another Chrysler type clamp inside the boot; I had to use a Dremell to cut it. The rod was welded back together in the past. Someone attempted to grind the end of the rod. Should be good now. The ball socket was pretty bad also. Hopefully the "click" will disappear when she rises. Ligarex and fabric tape. Posted by Phil Caron.

3

1970 ID19: Ball joints...

http://1970id19.blogspot.com/2011/11/ball-joints.html

Friday, November 18, 2011. There is still a drip at the drain plug of the gear box even after a new copper washer and some aviation sealer. It is wet on the side and above; I suspect a leak at the seam. The upper ball joint is apart. There was a little ridge on the side which I erased (Which may have produced binding with a thinner ring). I removed .25 mm on the ring. The ball joint is tight, smooth and has no binding. The upper one had a big play; about .4mm. Posted by Phil Caron.

4

1970 ID19: Plugs, air filter, rear brakes

http://1970id19.blogspot.com/2011/11/plugs-air-filter-rear-brakes.html

Wednesday, November 9, 2011. Plugs, air filter, rear brakes. The plugs are good. I've cleaned and gaped them. Since they were out I did a compression test:. 4: 132.5 psi. There is a substantial difference between cyl. 2 and 4 but i t is less than the critical 25%. I have refreshed the threads on the manifold and added a stud. I have also refresh the threads on the existing stud. Prepped the air cleaner. Cleaned, oiled and installed. Surprise, it is a 6V relay; it works though. Put an original seal but.

5

1970 ID19: Rear suspension cylinder...

http://1970id19.blogspot.com/2011/11/rear-suspension-cylinder.html

Thursday, November 10, 2011. I've restored the thread as well as possible; not perfect but hopefully it will work. Removed the groove on the suspension rod. A plastic version of the Ligarex ;o). Smoothed out the groove inside the socket and put a new ball (Should take care of the cracking noise while raising). Since the car was sagging very quickly on the back, I've changed the O ring inside the cylinder while it was out. I had to make a new pin since the old one broke at removal. Posted by Phil Caron.

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http://www.philcaron.com/portfolio.htm

Phil Caron - Citroën Restoration and Repair. Welcome to philcaron.com! Reupholstering seats on a 1969 Jaguar E Type…. 1958 Vespa 400 came in for brake job, various leaks, tune up etc. Changing the dashboard on a 1973 SM plus some electrical problems and spheres rebuilt. Swapping engine on Babette. Maintenance and repair on a 2CV Charleston: King pins, hub bearings, drive shaft, breather rebuild, fuel gauge and brake line. Octopus replacement (Hydraulic return lines) on a Citroen BX 16 RS. I am reviving a...

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Friday, November 25, 2011. Since the tank area was opened I spray some oil to fight rust and mice. Here is the new upper ball joint. I've used a hand made starter tool to extract the ball joint seat. The diameter and thread of the tool to extract the seat is 12mm x 1.0; I've used 12 x 1.25 which did not matter since the seat is good for the garbage anyway. Since I was lubing the ball joints, I did 15 pumps on the drive shaft. Posted by Phil Caron. Friday, November 18, 2011. The upper ball joint is apart.

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