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One Man Crowd: April 2012
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Sunday, April 29, 2012. Same spot as yesterday, later in the morning, smaller interval and with the Boss Who Surfs to share some stoke with.he had just returned from a long business world tour of Germany, India and Australia. Lucky guy got to surf Bell's Beach a couple of weeks after the pro surf competition.said it was fun and friendly. I think him and wife will be making their next vacation there. Got crowded real fast as the tide went down and the weather got sunny. By the time the Boss and I exit...
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One Man Crowd: December 2012
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Monday, December 31, 2012. Rocket Man (Cont.). 8221; screamed some private non-face over to the right of my position…like clockwork and in unison the shout “Corpsman! 8221; rings out amongst the din of war. To cover the medical recovery, the groms and I adjusted our line of fire, cracking off round after round of frenzied passion and fearful frustration. 8220;Private, get your fucking mortar and set it up! 8221; shouted the Gunny over the dying moans and screams of the injured. Moving with grace through ...
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One Man Crowd: January 2013
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Tuesday, January 1, 2013. Subscribe to: Posts (Atom). A pessimistic and problematic child of the desert who has stumbled upon the stoke filled liquid energy of optimistic fun and frivolity. View my complete profile. The Hawk and I. Full Moon Dawn Patrol. Inside the Hawk's Lair. The Quiver minus 1. SurfSitstas Shasara and Jessica. Big Day in NORCAL. A Board, Some Wax and a Leash. A day at the beach. Confessions of a Surfer. Daily Bread Surf Photo Maui. Eat, surf, love. Hated of the world.
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One Man Crowd: December 2011
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Friday, December 30, 2011. Trip down to the "Boat Ramp" for some really lame, but occasionally fun, sloppy seconds 4' mush balls.had it not been for my traveling companion, Surf Sista Shasara, I would not have even attempted the suit up. The weather, grey and dripping wet, was unwelcoming to this non-local, spitting and mocking me as I quickly got out of my warm vehicle, suited up and paddled out to began my last surf session of the year. Saturday, December 24, 2011. Since separating from the Air Force i...
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One Man Crowd: October 2012
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Tuesday, October 30, 2012. It's that Time of Year Again. Call me lucky or just a little early.just happened today, within the same stoke realm of my last visit to Mother Ocean. The guy is going to live and have a tale to tell, along with the brutal scar of a his close encounter with the Man in the Grey Suit. From the pic above, I can only figure that his 5/4 wetsuit protected and secured the gaping wound, preventing him from meeting the same unfortunate fate as the SOCAL surfer from last week. Here b da ...
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One Man Crowd: August 2012
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Thursday, August 30, 2012. No 46 and No. 47. Bigger and Better.A LOT! Caught it early again, pulling in behind one other guy. Hit the water with 4' faces of sublime liquid sweetness numbing my hands and face, while I caught wave after wave.a very nice sesh indeed. The chest felt a little sore after, but no incidents of instability. No pics from the session.too much fog! Just myself and the birds, but caught a couple of nice rides. Ribs still holding together. Saturday, August 25, 2012. But fuck it.I'...
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One Man Crowd: January 2012
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Sunday, January 29, 2012. On it very, very early.before daybreak because it was small (Chest High) and mellow which = crowds. Despite the weather report of overcast and potential rain, turned out to be clear and sunny.just another beautiful winter day in NORCAL. All in all a great day.Pics below:. Monday, January 23, 2012. Calling All Seekers of Stoke - SurfSista Needs Our Help. Http:/ www.gofundme.com/d8ab4. Mary (aka Surfsista) has broken her leg badly. Because she lives in the most advanced and. Let's...
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One Man Crowd: June 2012
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Wednesday, June 27, 2012. Another beautiful NORCAL early morning/dawn patrol sesh, with clean but cold water conditions. Surfed the Secret Spot…overwhelmingly small, but fun conditions with very challenging shoulders. Had the spot entirely to my lonesome self, while others attempted the breaks further south. Caught my fair share of lefts and rights for the 2 hours that I was in. Wednesday, June 20, 2012. Here b the pics:. Sunday, June 17, 2012. Surfed the usual spot in some really lame, small, mooshy and...
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One Man Crowd: July 2012
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Saturday, July 28, 2012. Surf Session No. 44. Having already promised to surf with Valerie and Michelle in the early afternoon, I mustered the belief that my early morning injury was really nothing to worry about and that I was a man of my word.so, off to surf I went. Being the stubborn type, and not wanting to miss out on some really fun, but seriously small waves, I kept on surfing. Yet, the problem continued to persist. After about 45 min, I gave up and had to go in. 15 hours later and I was back up i...
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One Man Crowd: Rocket Man (Cont.)
http://onemancrowd.blogspot.com/2012/12/rocket-man-cont.html
Monday, December 31, 2012. Rocket Man (Cont.). 8221; screamed some private non-face over to the right of my position…like clockwork and in unison the shout “Corpsman! 8221; rings out amongst the din of war. To cover the medical recovery, the groms and I adjusted our line of fire, cracking off round after round of frenzied passion and fearful frustration. 8220;Private, get your fucking mortar and set it up! 8221; shouted the Gunny over the dying moans and screams of the injured. Moving with grace through ...
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