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Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology

The aim of this blog is to document and discuss developments in rock climbing equipment. By following and discussing technological developments I hope to encourage interest in the equipment - in particular the techincal aspects from an engineering/design perspective.

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Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology | crabdev.blogspot.com Reviews
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The aim of this blog is to document and discuss developments in rock climbing equipment. By following and discussing technological developments I hope to encourage interest in the equipment - in particular the techincal aspects from an engineering/design perspective.
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Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology | crabdev.blogspot.com Reviews

https://crabdev.blogspot.com

The aim of this blog is to document and discuss developments in rock climbing equipment. By following and discussing technological developments I hope to encourage interest in the equipment - in particular the techincal aspects from an engineering/design perspective.

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crabdev.blogspot.com crabdev.blogspot.com
1

Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology: Sirocco helmet from Petzl

http://crabdev.blogspot.com/2012/09/sirocco-helmet-from-petzl.html

Sirocco helmet from Petzl. The new Sirocco helmet from Petzl. UKC/UKH at OutDoor 2012 - Petzl Scirocco Helmet. From UKClimbing.com TV. Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom). Sirocco helmet from Petzl. Simple template. Powered by Blogger.

2

Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology: Choosing the right carabiner

http://crabdev.blogspot.com/2012/08/choosing-right-carabiner.html

Choosing the right carabiner. Director of quality, Kolin Powick, has written a great article on carabiner. S; it talks about rock climbing crabs vs industrial crabs and why they don't recommend using one type for the other activity. He also carried out some tests on 'workhorse' crabs vs lightweight crabs using a drop tower. It's interesting to see that the lightweight crabs actually tended to deform and become unusable, whereas in the same tests the heavy duty crabs remained usable.

3

Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology: Load testing real trad gear placements

http://crabdev.blogspot.com/2013/06/load-testing-real-trad-gear-placements.html

Load testing real trad gear placements. Has tested a collection of trad gear placements. To see how solid 'real' placements are in real rock. He used a hydraulic piston to pull each placement until failure. Some of the results are quite surprising - with some very marginal looking placements taking surprising loads. He tests Camp Double nuts, a Wild Country Hex, an HB Quad Cam, a Camp Tricam, and a tied off chicken head. This extremely marginal looking hex took around 14kN before failing:.

4

Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology: New DMM gear: Thor carabiner with 11kN open gate strength, Rhino belay carabiner with 'horn'

http://crabdev.blogspot.com/2013/07/new-dmm-gear-thor-carabiner-with-11kn.html

New DMM gear: Thor carabiner with 11kN open gate strength, Rhino belay carabiner with 'horn'. Have announced a few new products at the OutDoor Friedrichshafen trade show in Germany. First, the Thor carabiner. Another new carabiner is the Rhino belay screwgate. This interesting looking crab has a 'horn' which they say "prevents assisted locking belay devices rotating off the top bar and on to the spine reducing the risk of cross loading, it also works well with selected DMM pulleys".

5

Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology: March 2013

http://crabdev.blogspot.com/2013_03_01_archive.html

Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screw. One of the more interesting of Petzl's latest product announcements. Subscribe to: Posts (Atom). Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screw. Simple template. Powered by Blogger.

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crabdev.co.uk crabdev.co.uk

Carabiner development - Tracking developments in rock climbing technology

http://crabdev.co.uk/index.htm

Tracking developments in rock climbing technology. This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence. Update: Featured article on UKClimbing.com 'A Composite Carabiner - Is it possible? Version of the composite carabiner study can be downloaded here. A lightweight composite carabiner for rock climbing - will it work?

crabdev.co.uk crabdev.co.uk

Carabiner developmentdfsdfdsfsdf

http://crabdev.co.uk/about.htm

Tracking developments in rock climbing technology. This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence. The aim of this website is to track developments in rock climbing equipment through a blog, and explore the feasibility of creating a lightweight composite carabiner. This composite carabiner study is available in the Composites section or as a pdf here. Left: 85 g Right: 52 g. Carabiner images reproduced from www.dmmwales.com.

crabdev.co.uk crabdev.co.uk

Carabiner development - Composite carabiner: introduction

http://crabdev.co.uk/comp%20introduction.htm

Tracking developments in rock climbing technology. This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence. Almost all carabiners currently used for rock climbing are made from aluminium alloy. For situations where weight is not an important factor, such as fixed anchors, steel carabiners are occasionally used for their improved wear resistance and greater tensile strength. A climber uses carabiners to protect himself in the event of a fall. Reproduced from [5]. The EN standard for carabiners recommends a...

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Carabiner development blog - tracking developments in rock climbing technology

Grivel Twin Gate carabiner. Grivel New "Twin Gate Carabiner": http:/ youtu.be/jkraPv-I Bk. A very interesting new carabineer from Grivel - Stevie Haston certainly makes it look effortless to use, but it would be interesting to see if it still looks so easy in the middle of a desperate onsight attempt. Black Diamond testing lab: Acid damage to climbing gear. Kolin Powick has added another excellent article. To the Black Diamond QC Lab blog. About acid damage to climbing gear. First, the Thor carabiner.

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Carabiner development - Tracking developments in rock climbing technology

Tracking developments in rock climbing technology. This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence. Update: Featured article on UKClimbing.com 'A Composite Carabiner - Is it possible? Version of the composite carabiner study can be downloaded here. A lightweight composite carabiner for rock climbing - will it work?

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