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Westernize your commiecam!

This photo essay will guide you through the steps necessary to upgrade your Kinor 35H or Konvas 2M / 7M to an industry standard 4 pin xlr power connector. Long live the revolution! Section 1: Roughing the Blanks. Section 2: Truing the block and making the pattern. Section 3: Boring the hole and rounding the corners. Section 4: Finishing up! Section 5: Final Wiring and Assembly (Kinor 35H). Section 6: Final Wiring and Assembly (Konvas). A note on shop safety.

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Westernize your commiecam! | lomoscope.com Reviews
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This photo essay will guide you through the steps necessary to upgrade your Kinor 35H or Konvas 2M / 7M to an industry standard 4 pin xlr power connector. Long live the revolution! Section 1: Roughing the Blanks. Section 2: Truing the block and making the pattern. Section 3: Boring the hole and rounding the corners. Section 4: Finishing up! Section 5: Final Wiring and Assembly (Kinor 35H). Section 6: Final Wiring and Assembly (Konvas). A note on shop safety.
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Westernize your commiecam! | lomoscope.com Reviews

https://lomoscope.com

This photo essay will guide you through the steps necessary to upgrade your Kinor 35H or Konvas 2M / 7M to an industry standard 4 pin xlr power connector. Long live the revolution! Section 1: Roughing the Blanks. Section 2: Truing the block and making the pattern. Section 3: Boring the hole and rounding the corners. Section 4: Finishing up! Section 5: Final Wiring and Assembly (Kinor 35H). Section 6: Final Wiring and Assembly (Konvas). A note on shop safety.

INTERNAL PAGES

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1

Westernize your Commiecam!

http://www.lomoscope.com/xlr_how_to-Pages/xlr_001.html

Westernize your Commiecam, continued. Section 1: Roughing the Blanks. Likes roughing blanks for projects but the sooner it is done the sooner the real fun can start. Cheap out on your hacksaw and you will be much. Happier in the workshop. My $25 Starrett costs over twice the price of a typical cheapo hacksaw, but guess what? I call that a bargain. Material to an undersize part! Makes the job go much easier. The cuts nice and straight - don't rush it! It won't be long now. Or Continue to Part 2.

2

Westernize your commiecam!

http://www.lomoscope.com/xlr_how_to-Pages/xlr_005.html

Westernize your Commiecam, continued. Section 5: Into the Belly of the Beast! The scary time has come to open up your camera. The following sequence will illustrate how to coonect the new xlr to the Kinor 35H. For installation on the 17 EP motor for Konvas cameras, click here. There are 4 screws you must remove to open the back of the camera; one on the bottom. Lift off the rear cover and feast your eyes on the magical world of soviet era electronics! A blue label on the ground wires,which terminate in a...

3

Westernize Your Commiecam!

http://www.lomoscope.com/xlr_how_to-Pages/xlr_004.html

Westernize your Commiecam, continued. Section 4: Finishing up! Measure the depth of your xlr body and make a corresponding mark on the block with a pencil. You can see mine in the picture to the left as I take my first cut. When measuring wher to cut, remember that you want the xlr to sit within the stand-off block fully, but you want the connecting pins to extend out the back. Of the block. You can see an example of what I mean further down this page. Here you see I have just reached the pencil line.

4

Westernize your Commiecam!

http://www.lomoscope.com/xlr_how_to-Pages/xlr_006.html

Westernize your Commiecam, continued. Section 5: Konvas Installation. On the 17 EP. Motor, remove the four screws holding the side panel on and expose the guts of the motor. Remove the first circuit board so you have room to work in there. There are two indents at the top of the board that you can slip a fingernail or screwdriver tip under. Gently pry up a little on each side until the board comes free. Don't force anything! Is the board you will be removing. Nifty engineering, isn't it? No longer will y...

5

Westernize your Commiecam!

http://www.lomoscope.com/xlr_how_to-Pages/xlr_002.html

Westernize your Commiecam, continued. Section 2: Truing the block and making the pattern:. We can go any further we have to be sure the sides of the blank are square and true, lest we wind up with a wonky ill-fitting parallelogram as our final product! Flycutter attachment makes short work of this part of the program - use it wisely and follow your usual procedure for truing up a rough cut block. The outline for the xlr hole lightly by hand and then used a compass to double check the accuracy of my work.

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Westernize your commiecam!

This photo essay will guide you through the steps necessary to upgrade your Kinor 35H or Konvas 2M / 7M to an industry standard 4 pin xlr power connector. Long live the revolution! Section 1: Roughing the Blanks. Section 2: Truing the block and making the pattern. Section 3: Boring the hole and rounding the corners. Section 4: Finishing up! Section 5: Final Wiring and Assembly (Kinor 35H). Section 6: Final Wiring and Assembly (Konvas). A note on shop safety.

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