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Notes on Marlin – Auto Bed Levelling | Building a 3D Printer

https://my3dprinterbuild.wordpress.com/2014/02/24/notes-on-marlin-auto-bed-levelling

Building a 3D Printer. Notes on Marlin – Auto Bed Levelling. Upon enabling the auto bed levelling feature of the Marlin firmware I learned a thing or two through trial and error and wished it had been better documented so I’ll try and let you know what I’ve learned. Here are links to some useful information that all helped me get setup:. So here is my start G-Code* that I’ve put in to Slic3r:. G28 X0 Y0 ;home X and Y. G1 X100 Y100 F5000 ;move nozzle to centre of bed. G28 Z0 ;home Z. G29 ;probe bed. Maybe...

2

Slic3r 1.0.0 RC3 | Building a 3D Printer

https://my3dprinterbuild.wordpress.com/2014/02/23/slic3r-1-0-0-rc3

Building a 3D Printer. Slic3r 1.0.0 RC3. Is almost at an official version 1! The latest release is less about features and more about but fixes. As always, a very big thank you goes out to Alessandro Ranellucci and everyone else who has contributed to the application. Especially in keeping it FREE! The ONE bug I hope gets fixed before the final version 1 gets released is hole diameters. It’s quite well documented on the Slic3r forums. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Enter your comment here. Next post →.

3

Slic3r v1.0.0 RC1 | Building a 3D Printer

https://my3dprinterbuild.wordpress.com/2013/11/21/slic3r-v1-0-0-rc1

Building a 3D Printer. Slic3r v1.0.0 RC1. Slic3r keeps on maturing and getting better with each revision. Their current release, version 1 release candidate 1 has some great new features. You can check out the full release notes and download your own copy HERE. A few major changes are:. Built-in automatic STL repair. New support material rewritten from scratch. Options to avoid starting loops on convex vertices and/or overhangs. Improved infill patterns and bridge detection. Leave a Reply Cancel reply.

4

Hot-End & Bed Calibration | Building a 3D Printer

https://my3dprinterbuild.wordpress.com/2013/11/21/hot-end-bed-calibration

Building a 3D Printer. Hot-End and Bed Calibration. In the quest to fine tune our printers I found a very good guide on how to calibrate the PID control. Of the Hot-End and the Heated Bed. If you find that your hot-end temperature fluctuates more than you’d like it to or that it over-shoots or stops short of the set temperature then this is for you. Again, the source of this information comes from Lincomatic. But this time there was a great summary found HERE. Input results into your Firmware. You are co...

5

Extrusion Calibration v2 | Building a 3D Printer

https://my3dprinterbuild.wordpress.com/2013/11/21/extrusion-calibration-v2

Building a 3D Printer. After re-reading Triffid Hunter’s calibration guide. I was specifically curious about the final comments about volumetric extrusion which makes sense as we are dealing with something that has volume. You can read up on the process and the rationale behind it HERE. Set the filament diameter to 1.128379 and never change it. Set the extrusion multiplier to 1 and never change it. Divide your E-Steps by 7 for 3mm filament or 2.4 for 1.75mm filament. Define DEFAULT AXIS STEPS PER UNIT.

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Setting the Flow Rate | Solidoodle Tips

https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/2012/08/16/setting-the-flow-rate

3D Printing with the Solidoodle 2. Skip to primary content. Setting the Flow Rate. August 16, 2012. Once you get your extruder calibrated, you know that the right amount of plastic is going in, but you still need to make sure that the right amount of plastic is coming out. Slic3r will run the extruder at the speed that it has calculated will deliver the right amount of plastic to create the thread width it has planned for. However the real world doesn’t always match up to those calculations. Print the cu...

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