robotclimbing.blogspot.com

Robot Climbing

Training Charts and Log. Friday, May 17, 2013. Lessons from 7 years of fingerboard training. Its been a while since I have posted on this blog. I haven’t decided if I am going to start doing regular updates or just write about how my training has changed in the last few years, which should last for at least a few posts. 1 front 3 open hand. 2 middle 2 open hand. 3 4 finger half crimp. 4 4 finger full crimp. 1 Time commitment: This took too long, especially considering that my life is much different now&#...

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Training Charts and Log. Friday, May 17, 2013. Lessons from 7 years of fingerboard training. Its been a while since I have posted on this blog. I haven’t decided if I am going to start doing regular updates or just write about how my training has changed in the last few years, which should last for at least a few posts. 1 front 3 open hand. 2 middle 2 open hand. 3 4 finger half crimp. 4 4 finger full crimp. 1 Time commitment: This took too long, especially considering that my life is much different now&#...

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Robot Climbing | robotclimbing.blogspot.com Reviews

https://robotclimbing.blogspot.com

Training Charts and Log. Friday, May 17, 2013. Lessons from 7 years of fingerboard training. Its been a while since I have posted on this blog. I haven’t decided if I am going to start doing regular updates or just write about how my training has changed in the last few years, which should last for at least a few posts. 1 front 3 open hand. 2 middle 2 open hand. 3 4 finger half crimp. 4 4 finger full crimp. 1 Time commitment: This took too long, especially considering that my life is much different now&#...

INTERNAL PAGES

robotclimbing.blogspot.com

1

Robot Climbing: April 2010

http://robotclimbing.blogspot.com/2010_04_01_archive.html

Training Charts and Log. Wednesday, April 28, 2010. There was some confusion about the chart from the last post. I'll split it up into several charts here and discuss. So as seen above training short power(1-4 move boulder problems) has a little carryover into resistance and decreases endurance. Long power(4-12 move boulder problems) is widely helpful. Short resistance(12-30 moves) has good carryover into all climbing strengths, while long resistance(30-60 moves) does little to help power of any kind.

2

Robot Climbing: March 2010

http://robotclimbing.blogspot.com/2010_03_01_archive.html

Training Charts and Log. Wednesday, March 24, 2010. That fall I spent my first weekends at Rumney. I did routes like Technosurfing and Whip Tide, and got incredibly shut down on Tsunami, Aquarius, and Suburban. All of this took place in the shadow of this:. Around this time I began seriously training for climbing. At first the training had a moderate effect on my climbing. Finally in the last 8 months or so I feel like I've found the training formula that allows me to climb at my best. Campus board power...

3

Robot Climbing: Three climbers and the story of climbing level.

http://robotclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/09/three-climbers-and-story-of-climbing.html

Training Charts and Log. Friday, September 24, 2010. Three climbers and the story of climbing level. Lets start with a few definitions. We'll say a climber's base level. Is the level at which a person climbs quickly(in a day for routes, an hour or so for boulders) when they are fit but haven't performed any intense training. Is the level at which a person climbs quickly when a person is benefitting from a training regimen. Is the level at which a person climbs, after training, given a large amount of time.

4

Robot Climbing: February 2010

http://robotclimbing.blogspot.com/2010_02_01_archive.html

Training Charts and Log. Saturday, February 27, 2010. First of all which hangboard to I use. I started out with the Revolution "Hovah", then moved to a Moon Board, then I used a combination of the two plus a single small campus rung. Now and for the foreseeable future I'll be using the Beastmaker 2000. When I do a a hangboard workout I use five main grips. Back 2: ring and pinky finger. Front 2: index and middle finger. Middle 2: middle and ring finger. Back 2 (7s 3s)x7, rest 2 minutes. These are perform...

5

Robot Climbing: Lessons from 7 years of fingerboard training

http://robotclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/05/lessons-from-7-years-of-fingerboard.html

Training Charts and Log. Friday, May 17, 2013. Lessons from 7 years of fingerboard training. Its been a while since I have posted on this blog. I haven’t decided if I am going to start doing regular updates or just write about how my training has changed in the last few years, which should last for at least a few posts. 1 front 3 open hand. 2 middle 2 open hand. 3 4 finger half crimp. 4 4 finger full crimp. 1 Time commitment: This took too long, especially considering that my life is much different now&#...

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Training Charts and Log. Friday, May 17, 2013. Lessons from 7 years of fingerboard training. Its been a while since I have posted on this blog. I haven’t decided if I am going to start doing regular updates or just write about how my training has changed in the last few years, which should last for at least a few posts. 1 front 3 open hand. 2 middle 2 open hand. 3 4 finger half crimp. 4 4 finger full crimp. 1 Time commitment: This took too long, especially considering that my life is much different now&#...

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