pricklesgoo.blogspot.com
Prickles & Goo: Wonderstuff failed attempts.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2009/05/wonderstuff-failed-attempts.html
Wednesday, May 13, 2009. Here's a video Shawn made of me on wonderstuff 5.12d. It's supposed to be soft for 12d, but it's still relatively unfathomable for me at this point. I think this one is going to require some, gulp, training. Don't know if I will, or what that would entail. Cardio? Less bacon on the weekends? Too bad it's now a bajillion degrees in Vegas, so I might have to wait until autumn for a good try again. Back to Mt. Charleston for some drilled limestone pockets. FEEDJIT Live Traffic Map.
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Prickles & Goo: LRC and HP40
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2013/03/lrc-and-hp40.html
Wednesday, March 6, 2013. This is some super tardy content from November of last year when i took a few days to go bouldering in Little Rock City and HP40. The entry sticker for LRC.Thanksgiving Weekend conditions were almost perfect. A little cold in the mornings and warm in the sun. Some of the crimpy problems in LRC did get greasy though. Takako on Pocket Pool v4. My lunch. Jam with Justin's chocolate hazelnut butter. Probably better than creatine monohydrate. V6 The Wave - Flash. V4 - Mystery Groove?
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Prickles & Goo: So Sad.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2011/01/so-sad.html
Monday, January 10, 2011. Sunset over the Sierras as we drove away from the Volcanic Tablelands. Rio's Crack.: Wow that was desparate thanks to zero feet. Do anything you can to get to the first sinker crack for your left hand. I used the dangerous huecos on the face as "drive-by" holds. Won't be repeating that anytime soon. Professional Widow, sort of a highball. Maybe I just did it wrong. Hot Pants: Why did I waste time and skin on this pebble? Pop a Wheelie v4. Strength in Numbers v5. X Hot Pants v5.
pricklesgoo.blogspot.com
Prickles & Goo: Fear This Sport.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2009/05/fear-this-sport.html
Sunday, May 10, 2009. Video of me falling off the first bouldery crux of Fear this Sport 5.12b at Cannibal Crag. I later discovered a knee bar but it's still quite difficult for me. If anybody out there has good beta, I'll take it. After falling, there is an impromptu moment of passion. Hey, it happens. Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom). FEEDJIT Live Traffic Map. FEEDJIT Live Traffic Feed. Watermark template. Powered by Blogger.
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Prickles & Goo: February 2013
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2013_02_01_archive.html
Monday, February 25, 2013. F* this sport. 5.12b. I last tried this route 1,380 days ago back in 2009. At that time, i couldn't even pull the opening crux. Alas, about one ton of beer later, (averaging two 12 oz. bottle per day), the deed is done. My pathetic attempt from 4 years ago can be found here. Thanks to Dan L for the super belay and John D for the video. F* * this Sport 5.12b. Links to this post. Subscribe to: Posts (Atom). FEEDJIT Live Traffic Map. F* this sport. 5.12b. FEEDJIT Live Traffic Feed.
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Prickles & Goo: Klondike Bar.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2013/03/klondike-bar.html
Monday, March 4, 2013. What would a climber do for a klondike bar? Cannabis Crag behind Kraft Mountain. The route is Synapse Collapse. Glad I was not the belayer. What will a climber do for a klondike bar? Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom). FEEDJIT Live Traffic Map. FEEDJIT Live Traffic Feed. Watermark template. Powered by Blogger.
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Prickles & Goo: Borderline.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2014/08/borderline.html
Monday, August 11, 2014. My 3rd 13a. Never thought I'd get to this grade. However, an insidious pattern has emerged-. I need at least one no-hands rest to send at this difficulty:. Straight Outta Compton - 12d… no-hands. Halfway up the route. Energizer 5.13a - Three to four no-hands rests in overhanging cave. Corrosion 5.13a - One double. No-hands rest before the roof crux. Borderline 5.13a - One no-hands. Crux about 1/3 of the way up the route. 94 ion sterling rope. 510 kneepad with sticky rubber.
pricklesgoo.blogspot.com
Prickles & Goo: Epinephrine. 2,000 ft. 5.9.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2011/06/epinephrine-2000-ft-59.html
Monday, June 13, 2011. Epinephrine. 2,000 ft. 5.9. 59 trad was putting Ryan to sleep, so he inserted a dyno to spice things up. We decided to do this route several weeks ago. Stashed gear the day before, and did the uber early start (wake up at 2:30am). Started the climb at 5:09am. Not critical or necessary. Could have done the climb with nothing larger than #3, and single rack. We followed the handren guide advice of single to #4 and double 1-3. April 13, 2012 at 5:26:00 AM EST. Climbing in the gunks.
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Prickles & Goo: April 2015
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2015_04_01_archive.html
Wednesday, April 8, 2015. Picture sequence is from Dec 2014, I think. You can click to enlarge. I tried this on and off for about 5 years maybe, dedicating a bunch of days in 2013 and it finally went down winter 2014. Only saying this b/c I can see the 8/9 grade if I get on my tippy toes and peek over the fence. But 9/10 is definitely beyond anything i can muster. As for spotting, thanks to friends Chufftimus Prime and Shia LeChuff. Sir Chuff-a-lot was taking a nap i think. Links to this post.
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Prickles & Goo: Wonderstuff 5.12d.
http://pricklesgoo.blogspot.com/2011/04/wonderstuff-512d.html
Tuesday, April 5, 2011. 3 years ago, I first tried this route. Video of attempts here. Wonderstuff finally went down last week after a concerted effort. I guess my prescience was real after all! It's too late to do anything training-wise. While a chilly breeze kept the crimps dry. If you can boulder v5/6 you should get on this route! March 13, 2012 at 11:49:00 PM EST. Was your beta essentially the same when you sent? November 1, 2012 at 10:35:00 PM EST. December 2, 2012 at 6:34:00 PM EST.
